March 29
Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, 1350 total miles, with perhaps the slowest 500 miles I’ve ever driven today (eleven & a half hours). It turns out the Alcan exceeds my expectations—not that I anticipated four lane industrialized freeway, but there are considerable stretches wherein exceeding 30 kmh (yes, kilometers) would imperil you beyond belief. The fastest one is permitted to go is 100 kmh (62 mph), so making good time is necessarily secondary to an awareness of your environment, which I suppose I like. Today, after hours of road that made Guenella Pass look like child’s play, I thought I had emerged into an easy driving section prior to the BC/YT border, but found that every half mile or so I had to slow or stop so that small herds of buffalo could graze at leisure along the side of the road, the only strip where the copper-wire grass is visible. They barely glance as you drive past, ignoring Willa’s incessant curiosity. & beyond them, there is the snow, the snow. Towns along